4AGE likely will require bonnet bulge or cutout to fit throttle body and intake plenum. Engine and transmission centerline was located 1/2" right of center line of chassis. Originally I placed the engine by raising the chassis raised 2" from flat board, engine tilted (as stock) to the left until the housing around the gear shifter was close to horizontal. I used the oil pan as the guide, attempting to get it flat. About 4 1/2" ground clearance is retained from the oil pan using 185x60 tires on 14" rims. If necessary, up to 1 1/2" can be removed from the oil pan. The slant of the engine toward the rear is determined by the fit in the transmission tunnel. This location was ideal for allowing clearance between R and the brace on the intake plenum.
Since the above pictures were taken, I lowered the almost an entire inch, which improves the fit around the nose cone quite a bit.
You can see how I've lowered R one inch, which gave room around the bottom of the plenum to lower the engine:
It was also necessary to widen both of the G chassis members:
These changes will give more room around the nose cone, including room for the flow meter and air filter at the front if necessary.
The stock 4AGE engine mounts can be retained if desired. The engine mount supports are cut from the original engine cradle. With the engine supported in it's correct location, bolt the engine mounts to the engine, then the supports to the mounts. I discarded the saftey bracket between the mounts and the engine, and used a flat plate to support the brackets on the frame. Trim the outside of these new supports to be even with a straight edge between F1/2 & J1/2 to clear the bodywork, then attach a backing plate to stiffen the structure. You must leave clearance at the top of the backing plate to allow the engine mount bolt to be removed through the top as the engine is lifted. Notice the modified bracket in place on the chassis at the bottom, and how the tilt on the engine positions the intake plenum support nicely between the upper chassis members.
Lowering the engine a further inch means that I no longer need extensions to the portion of the original engine brackets I was able to save from the GTS cradle. The engine brackets are mounted directly on a 12g plate welded between the bottom chassis members.
Tilt so that the back of the bell housing is placed even with the front of the inner H's. Be careful to allow enough clearance for the clutch slave cylinder lever arm reach full travel! Place output shaft in line with the engine shaft, mine was 1/2" right of the chassis center line. The original transmission cross member was cut to fit between the lower transmission tunnel members, with cutouts to drop the transmission to the correct height but still retain the maximum length for welding in place. The original mount was retained. Careful placement of the cross member ensured no stress placed on the mount for easy assembly.
The spline and front u-joint assembly can be cut from front drive shaft section and careful grinding should separate it from the tube. Measuring carefully, you should find that the correct position for trimming the rear driveshaft will be just ahead of where it "necks" down to the stock attachment of the middle u-joint. Cut to shorten rear section and attach the front spline & u-joint by welding. Be certain to duplicate the original orientation of the u-joint "ears" on the shaft. Balance. Install :-). You can see the transmission mount in this photo as well.
